Baobab Beach Bungalows

(69 rooms) PO Box 2632, Nungwi, Zanzibar; Ø 024 2236315/0777 416964; f 024 2231199; e baobabnungwi@zanzinet.com/ baobabnungwi@yahoo.com; www.baobabbeachbungalows.com (Baobab 5º43.927'S; 39º17.528'E). Although this is one of the largest establishments on this stretch of coast, Baobab's location on a quiet, sandy cove at the southernmost end of Nungwi Beach holds great appeal. There are 4 categories of room, all spotlessly clean with en-suite bathrooms, hot and cold water, ceiling fans, mosquito nets, mains electricity, UK 3-pin sockets and a private balcony. Compact standard rooms are set back from the sea, amid neatly manicured gardens, but their small size makes them little more than a place to sleep. Unless your budget won't stretch the extra US$20, the best accommodation options are probably the lodges and deluxe rooms. Although they are set quite far back from the water's edge, the lodges do benefit from an unobstructed view of the sea, making their verandas a perfect spot to watch the sun set after a hard day on the beach.

Alternatively, a row of comfortable deluxe rooms run perpendicular to the beach and offer a little extra space along with newly tiled floors, AC, Zanzibari coconut-wood furniture and incongruous fluffy pink bathmats. At the same price as the superior rooms, these are a far better bet. At the time of visiting, a swimming pool was being hand-cut out of the coral rock in front of these rooms. Opened in Jul 2005, the polygonal superior rooms, built in 2-storey structures at the back of the resort, again feature coconut furniture, a shower that would 'hold an entire football team', fabrics ranging from faux leopard-skin to pale-peach polyester, and a view across the rest of the bungalows. The seaview Beach Restaurant & Bar enjoys the resort's premium position, right on the edge of a coral cliff, immediately above the sea. Local and international dishes feature on both the à la carte and buffet menus. Follow dinner with a game of pool or a table football match, or relax at the hands of the resident masseuse. The hotel has 24hr security and there is a safe at reception. Standard room US$50/60 sgl/dbl; lodges US$70/90 sgl/dbl; deluxe and superior rooms US$90/130 sgl/dbl. All rates inc b/fast.

The Nungwi Inn Hotel

(18 rooms) PO Box 1496, Zanzibar; Ø 024 2240091; e thenungwi_inn@hotmail.com (Nuninn 5º43.864'S; 39º17.517'E). Nungwi Inn Hotel is unusual in that its two categories of room and reception are all geographically detached; its seaview rooms are right on the beach, just behind Spanish Dancer's dive centre, whilst its non-seaview rooms are set in gardens, across the dirt road; and its reception is roughly between the two, in a parade of shops.

However, if you can track down someone who works here, these rooms are a good bet. Bright and airy, they are spotlessly clean with starched white bedding, mosquito nets, fans (AC in the seaview rooms), 24hr electricity, UK 3-pin sockets and hot water in the en-suite bathrooms. There is a basic restaurant and the hotel can arrange beach barbecues on the sand at night. Rooms here can also be booked though the Spanish Dancer dive centre website: www.spanishdancerdivers.com. Seaview room US$50/80/105 sgl/dbl/tpl; non-seaview room US$30/50/75 sgl/dbl/tpl, inc b&b.

Safina Bungalows

(25 rooms) PO Box 3758, Zanzibar; Ø 0748 717237; e Luwamboi@yahoo.com (Safina 5º43.839'S; 39º17.523'E). Under the enthusiastic new management of Aisha Oletei, Safina is slowly being renovated to a good standard. In spite of the lack of sea view, it's a comfortable and spotlessly clean bedtime retreat. All rooms have 24hr electricity, 3- pin UK sockets and hot water in en-suite bathrooms. Dbl rooms have duvets in addition to the standard sheets. US$35/40/45/60 sgl/twin/dbl/tpl b&b.

H&H Beach Bungalows

(15 rooms) PO Box 114, Zanzibar; Ø 024 2250630/0777 416937; e info@hamimtour.com; http://hamimtour.com (H-hbea 5º43.829'S; 39º17.54'E). Tucked behind Safina, Hamim and Hamida Abdallah's bungalows are a basic but great-value option. Dbl, twin and tpl rooms are set out around a small, sandy quad, where fruit and cooked eggs are served each morning. Rooms are clean and the en-suite bathrooms have hot water and good quality fittings. Ceiling fans, mosquito nets, 24hr electricity and 3-pin UK sockets are standard. Hamim is a tour operator in Stone Town so arranging transfers and excursions can be done with ease. US$15 pp b&b.

Amaan Bungalows

(53 rooms) PO Box 4769, Nungwi, Zanzibar; Ø 024 2240026/0777 417390; f 024 2240026; e amaannungwi@yahoo.com; www.amaanbungalows.com (Amaanb 5º43.778'S; 39º17.497'E). Heralded by rows of fluttering international flags, Amaan Bungalows is a sprawling, whitewashed, castellated complex. The 53 rooms are divided into 3 broad categories, imaginatively named A, B and C, plus 5 more recent seaview rooms, perched on coral rock over the sea across the road. The rooms are all clean and cared for with en-suite tiled bathrooms, hot and cold water, ceiling fans, mosquito nets, mains electricity, UK 3-pin sockets and a private terrace. Safety deposit boxes are available at reception. Most rooms can be made up for sgl to tpl occupancy, and a couple are interconnecting for groups and families.

This is an ever-expanding and developing complex popular with a young crowd seeking to be at the very centre of the action. Bordering the main track through town, Amaan also has a parade of practical shops and a new café. The bureau de change will convert virtually any major currency into Tanzanian shillings or US dollars, the internet café offers reliable PCs and fast, satellite internet connection, and the travel agency is a good bet for arranging local excursions and onward travel in mainland Tanzania. The Souvenir Emporium is a great place to pick up a postcard before heading to Namaste, the new neighbourhood coffee house. Fat Fish restaurant and Upper Deck, immediately opposite on the sea front, are affiliated with Amaan and are the places to eat pizza and seafood, drink virtually anything and be merry at any hour of the day. Seaview rooms are US$60/85 sgl/dbl. Room types A, B and C range in price from US$30–45 sgl to US$45–65 dbl. All room categories can be made up as a tpl for an extra US$20. Book directly with the hotel reception and receive a 10% discount. Credit cards are not accepted; travellers' cheques are subject to a 10% surcharge. Payment is preferred in US$.

Langi Langi Beach Bungalows

(19 rooms) PO Box 132, Nungwi, Zanzibar; Ø 024 2240470; f 024 2240471; e langi_langi@hotmail.com (Langil 5º43.725'S; 39º17.491'E). The name Langi Langi is a Swahili derivation of ylang ylang, the perfumed Asian tree (Cananga odorata) planted in the hotel's lush gardens. Essential oil from the flowers is often used in the aromatherapy treatment of stress: a condition rarely encountered on Zanzibar. The 19 en-suite rooms are compact and clean, each with AC, fans and constant hot water. Mosquito nets are available upon request and you can even borrow a hairdryer from reception. They are a walk from the beach, but they are of a good standard, and do sit right in the heart of Nungwi's tourist scene.

At the end of 2005, construction was under way on an ambitious new bar, restaurant and lounge area, across the dirt road and next to the ocean. Set on a large cantilevered deck over the sea, with some innovative design features, there are plans to include a stylish massage spot on the upper deck and 2 luxury rooms with private seaview balconies. An internet café and small gift shop may follow. The owner, Mansour Saleh Said, is clearly investing heavily in this property and is keen to see it succeed; the quality he's providing make this a great option within the price bracket. Rooms are US$50/75 tpl, US$40/60 dbl and US$35/45 sgl low/high season. All room rates include continental b/fast, service charges and VAT.