On the west cost, about 4km south of Nungwi, is the tiny village and beautiful beach of Kendwa. What a relief after the noise and crowded development of Nungwi! It's a serene place (most of the time), with some well-spaced, simple places to stay, a clutch of beach bars, a dive school, and a glorious, wide, sandy beach, which doesn't suffer the vast tidal changes of the east coast.

Until the arrival of La Gemma dell'Est in late 2005, Kendwa catered almost exclusively for backpackers and those in search of simple, low-budget escapism. It remains a peaceful place to chill out and has a feeling of space not found in neighbouring Nungwi. It does liven up in the evening, with bonfires, barbecues and full-moon beach parties de rigueur, but apart from that it's an absolute haven of peace. Let's hope it stays this way.

Getting there and away
From Nungwi, you can simply walk along the beach at low tide. If you plan on doing this it's imperative that you are aware of tide times before setting off: with steep coral cliff bordering the beach, there is nowhere to escape the incoming tide. It is also worth noting that there have been a few incidents of robbery on the 1.5km stretch of beach between Baobab Beach Bungalows and la Gemma dell'est.

A good option is to travel by boat from Nungwi. Several places in Kendwa run a free transfer service, or it's easy to find a local boatman who will take you for a few dollars, but do check their reliability with others first.

If you're driving, turn off the main road about 4km south of Nungwi
(TUKEND 5º45.403'S; 39º18.065'E), and follow the very rough, undulating track for about another 2km. A high-clearance vehicle is essential.