Beho Beho Camp
(8 units) 022 260 0352–4; 022 260 0347; UK 020 8750 5655;
Beho Beho's site was used for a safari camp as early as 1972; one of the first such sites in the Selous. It still has an unusual location for this park, high on a hill in an area dotted with baobabs. In 2004 it was virtually rebuilt and completely refurbished, and is now widely regarded as the best lodge in the Selous. Accommodation is in one of 8 very large and attractively decorated en-suite bandas built of local stone on the footslopes of the Beho Beho Hills, on the west side of northern Selous. All have large bathrooms with great showers, flush toilets and dual washbasins. The bedrooms have canopied kingsize beds, ceiling fans and 24hr electricity (3- pin UK-style plugs). All are slightly different, and each has a separate area that is partly lounge, partly veranda. This lies under a high thatched roof, with almost a whole wall open at the front.
The elegant dining area serves very high-quality food, with everyone usually sitting around the same table – even if the location of the table varies. Afterwards there are vast sofas to relax in around the bar area, and a full-size slate-bedded billiards table to keep the restless entertained.
Slightly down the slope, the swimming pool and its sundeck also command a spectacular view. Beho Beho is the only lodge within Selous set away from the river, but a permanent pool in the valley below supports a resident pod of hippos and attracts plenty of game and birdlife. Although very comfortable, what has really gained such a top reputation for the camp in the past few years is the quality, and enthusiasm, of its guiding team – currently led by Spike Williamson and Sean Lues.
Here lies the camp's real attraction, as both were guide-trainers in Zimbabwe under what was certainly Africa's best system of safari guide accreditation), and thus offer a depth of knowledge and guiding experience that's very hard to match. Being in a relatively remote area of the park, you'll find few other visitors in Beho Beho's vicinity.
The camp's activities include 4x4 game drives, boat trips on Lake Tagalala, and particularly good walking safaris. (It's not unknown for morning activities to last for 5 or 6hrs if you are enthusiastic and energetic!) Nearby sites of interest include some World War I trenches (complete with scattered artefacts), the grave of Frederick Courtney Selous and a group of hot springs set in a patch of riparian woodland. New for 2006 are Beho Beho's super-luxurious 'bush nights' – with a small fly-camp set up for just 2–4 guests. At a high cost, this must rate as some of Africa's most exclusive, and expensive, camping! As a relatively new camp which is rapidly gaining something of a revered status, it raised its rates substantially between 2005 and 2006; they may well continue to rise. US$ pp sharing for FB, inc drinks and activities but exclusive of park fees. 'Bush nights' cost an extra US$350 pp, on top of the normal room cost.